Bowfell Bivi
Bowfell, a majestic pyramid-shaped mountain, stands proudly at the heart of the English Lake District, within the Southern Fells area. As the sixth-highest mountain in this stunning region, it captivates the hearts of countless walkers. Celebrated in Alfred Wainwright’s ‘best half dozen’ Lake District fells, Bowfell inspires all who seek adventure in its breathtaking embrace.
Winter’s End. A time for renewal:
With over 30 paragliders filling the sky above Threlkeld, Blease Fell transformed into a vibrant kaleidoscope of colours, signalling that winter weather had finally ended. But would the conditions be favourable enough to witness a dramatic sunset from a high Lakeland bivi?
The Three Tarns nestled below the precipitous links of Bowfell present an inspiring choice for a Mountain Bivi. With the right lighting, a captivating sunset will illuminate the Bowfell links and cast a mesmerising reflection on the tarns below. Against the dark, formidable silhouette of the Scafells, this setting offered a remarkable opportunity for a breathtaking image.
Comfort kills. Persevere and flourish:
As I contemplated the rucksack’s weight, I realised it wasn’t just a physical burden but a metaphor for life’s challenges. Every step taken is a testament to our ability to endure and thrive. Comfort kills. Notwithstanding, it was comforting to know the National Trust Warden would keep an eye on my vehicle. After a long hike in the hills, with aching shoulders and heavy feet, the only thought running through my mind on that last mile is, “I hope the bloody car is still there!”.
Bypassing the road, I embraced the serenity of the footpath that wound through the enchanting woodland behind the Seatoller car park. Crossing an old packhorse bridge, I felt the refreshing energy of the crystal blue waters of the river Derwent beneath me, as I headed towards Mountain View cottages.
The Mountain with the Shieling by a Ravine:
As you cross the road and ascend Thorneythwaite Fell, be prepared to be captivated by the stunning views of Comb Gill. This classic hanging valley, shaped by the artistry of glacial erosion, is evidence to the beauty of nature.
A brief stop at Capell Crag reveals the stunning sight of Honister Crag, dramatically poised above the Honister Pass. Yet it is at the Summit of Glaramara that a magnificent 360-degree panorama unfolds. Derived from Old Norse, its name means “The Mountain with the Shieling by a Ravine,” where ‘Shieling’ signifies a mountain hut. From this vantage point, Glaramara offers breathtaking vistas of Buttermere, Derwent Water, the Langdale Pikes, and the iconic Great Gable.
Shortly after, with Allen Crags bagged, it was 5pm and the last lot of bods were making their way off the hills via routes from Esk Hause. Trudging down to Ore Gap from Esk Pike, I wandered over to view Angle Tarn. Not far from the Tarn, some adventurers had set up camp and were the last people I would see till after nine the next morning.
It was 5pm as I descended from Allen Crags, and the last group of adventurers began their descent off the hills via paths from Esk Hause. With determination, I trudged down to Ore Gap from Esk Pike, my gaze drawn to the serene beauty of Angle Tarn. Not far from the Tarn, a group of spirited souls had set up camp, the last kindred spirits I would encounter until the dawn broke the next morning.
Bowfell:
Reaching the summit of Bowfell at 6:20 pm, I embarked on a steep descent towards the three tarns, motivated by the desire to capture the beauty of the sunset at 7:45 pm. In the first image, I chose to reflect the setting sun on the tarn’s surface. Despite the sky’s lack of dramatic clouds and the risk of lens flare, this option felt right. The semi-submerged rocks in the tarn enriched the foreground. The final image was pleasing enough, but nothing fantastic.
Overnight Bivi:
A revisit will be required to capture the Bowfell Links, as I yearned for the elusive red glow on the links themselves, a reminder of the unpredictable and difficult nature of mountain photography.
After seeking a bivi site for the night, just a stone’s throw from the tarn, I settled down for the evening. No head torches flickered over to the Scafells or anywhere else; the night was wonderfully still. With a gentle cooling breeze caressing my face and the stars shining brilliantly above, I found myself in a moment where few places could rival this serenity.
Embrace each sunrise with gratitude for life:
At dawn, I chose to capture the view to the east of Pike of Stickle and Langdale. Though an overcast sky obscured the light, the sunrise over the landscape inspired gratitude and reminded me that each day holds the promise of new beginnings, waiting to be embraced.
I was keen to get moving once all the kit was stowed away, as the long wait for dawn to break soon cooled the body. In any case, you can only do so many jumping jacks to keep warm before boredom sets in! So with the kit packed, I moved off, and with blood flowing, the body soon warmed up, and I was left with that fantastic feeling you experience when high up in the mountains just after sunup.
Nature’s Embrace:
I was eager to get moving once all the gear was stowed away, as the long wait for dawn caused my body to cool down. After all, you can only do so many jumping jacks to stay warm before boredom sets in! With the kit packed, I set off. As the blood started flowing, my body quickly warmed up, and I was left with that exhilarating feeling you experience when you’re high up in the mountains just after sunrise.
Heading over Crinkle Crags from where I took some more images, the sun peaked in and out of the clouds. Descent of the Crinkle Crags, bad step with a heavy pack, proved an interesting short scramble. My final shot of the trip, a breathtaking view of Langdale Valley shrouded in a delicate layer of mist and softened light, perfectly captured the beauty of nature’s embrace.
Langstrath Valley:
The first sign of life was a camper enjoying a morning brew by the tranquil tarn at Great Knott. I then descended to Red Tarn and followed the route to Stool End Farm. Shortly after, I picked up the Cumbria Way toward Stake Pass, captivated by the numerous waterfalls cascading down Stake Beck as I made my way to Langstrath.
It was turning out to be an extremely hot day, so I decided to take a pit stop at the footbridge over Stake Beck in Langstrath. There I enjoyed a foot spar in the cooling waters. Later, with my Helly Hansen top soaked in the refreshing waters, I set off for the long walkout. Langstrath is a quiet valley with few visitors, but it is well worth the trip. I picked up the path to Stonethwaite and began the final slog to Seatoller. After retracing my steps over the River Derwent, I was soon back at the car in Seatoller. With my socks off and crocs on, it was finally time for the journey home.
Photography Notes:
Canon EOS 500d Body. Canon TS-E 24mm f/3.5 L lens (shift & tilt). Shots taken in April 2011. Lens flare was a big issue.
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