Slioch – The Spear like Mountain:
Slioch was called An Sleaghach by locals in the early 20th Century. The Reverend Burn on his Munroe exploits said it was pronounced Sluggich by the natives. Like many Scottish mountains, however, there is much confusion as to the original names and pronunciation. Nevertheless, Spear-Like Mountain (An Sleaghan) is an apt description; for Sliochs immense western sandstone bastions, thrust up like spears, behind a low ridge above Loch Maree.
As you can see from the image, Slioch has an impression of impregnability. Easy access exists, however, via a monstrous corrie descending to Gleann Bianasdail. Behind Sliochs impregnable presence, lies one of the most remote areas of Britain. Indeed, the vast area of Letterewe, Fisherfield and Dundonnell hold: nine Munros, seven Corbetts and six Grahams, A’Mhaighdean is considered the most remote Munroe. If any true wilderness exists in these Isles, then it is here.
Beinn Allign -Traverse of the Horns:
The locations I chose to take the images of Slioch, are easily accessible and well known. They lie in the Beinn Eigh National Nature Reserve: Britains first. The Mountains of this area are so distinct and individualistic. I find the drive in from Kinlochewe quite overwhelming, equally, the turn off to Torridon is spellbinding. It had been many years since my last visit to this awe-inspiring place. One Christmas when the boys were young we had stayed at Kinlochewe Mountain Chalets. We were the only others there. I mention this stay at Kinlochewe on account of an incident that took place.
I had managed to get away (boxing day) on a solo trip into the hills with the camera. Beinn Allign ‘The Jewelled Mountain’ or ‘Mountain of Beauty’ (Ailleagan) was the plan for the day. Beinn Allign is one of the sculptured sandstone peaks in Torridon formed over 1,000 million years ago. The Torridon mountains are thought to be the oldest in the world. The route I did that day is known as the “traverse of the horns”. The weather was beautiful. The tops were a patchwork of snow and grasses. I remember a feeling of great, health and fitness: I felt on top of the world. The contrast of the next day could not have been more pronounced.
Air Ambulance:
I had awoken feeling nauseous, with a dull ache in my abdomen. Thinking fresh air would do me good we headed for a ride down to Torridon. We stopped for a walk around Lower Diabaig Pier. The road from Torridon down to Lower Diabaig is beautiful, I don’t think, however, I was at my best to enjoy it. We didn’t stop long in the village as I was not getting better and felt I needed to vomit. After much retching, nothing appeared. My then-wife suggested seeing the Doctor at Torridon.
I was reticent to waste the Doctors time, but on account of how unwell I felt, decide it was the best course of action. The Doctor examined me and determined on the tenderness of my stomach that I had appendicitis. The issue, of course, was the distance from the hospital in Inverness. She suggested it would be best to go via the Air Ambulance. I declined, replying my wife would drive me there. Fool I hear you say: and fool you may be right. Nevertheless, there was logic in my thinking.
Hospital:
I wasn’t convinced it was appendicitis: but rather my then-wife’s cooking as previous poisonings were an ongoing joke. To be flown to the hospital only to find out I had Delhi belly was too much of an embarrassment to contemplate. After a torturous journey to Inverness, I was soon in theatre even though tests for appendicitis were inconclusive. I have to say, however, I have never awoken from an operation feeling so good. It was only at this point, I could eliminate the involvement of Mary Anne Cotton.
Some days later we made our journey back to Kinlochewe Mountain Chalets. The owners, sympathetic to our situation, proposed we stay until I was fit to travel home – free of charge. Whilst I remember with fondness their charity, I regret their names have gone with the passage of time. We did not stay much longer though and travelled back on New Year’s Day. I remember that journey back from the Highlands was stunning, the weather and light conditions being sublime, and if I had had it my way, I could have taken dozens of photographs!
The Return:
The transparency image above was my first landscape photograph after the operation. And it was a surreal experience to be back there after all these years on a road trip with my young daughter. As we journeyed into Beinn Eighe Nature reserve past Kinlochewe, Abhainn an Fhasaigh, carrying a colossal body of water from Lochan Fada cascaded into Loch Maree. That overwhelming feeling I had when I first saw this place instantly returned: it was beauty beyond parallel. How could I have put off a return here for so long?
Despite the years, Slioch the “Spear Like Mountain” still towered majestically over Loch Maree in all her magnificence. The evening was still, and I was gifted some satisfying light and colour. I have yet to climb Slioch, and maybe when I do, I will Kayak Loch Maree and walk from there – that seems the best adventure.
For this evening, however, I was content to watch Sliochs beauty from a distance; in the company of my equally beautiful daughter as the shadows grew and the colours and light gradually faded. .
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Fragmented Memory 🙂
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