The Drumbeg Loop | Kylesku to Lochinver

Majestic Suilven & Cul Mor Sutherland

The Wee Mad Road of Sutherland:

The Drumbeg Loop is a single track road (B869) that loops off the A837 north of picturesque Lochinver and rejoins the A894 at Kylesku, although I went the opposite direction. The B869 is often referred to on the internet as “The Wee Mad Road of Sutherland“. Nonetheless, I’m not sure this is correct? My understanding is “The Wee Mad Road of Sutherland” runs from Badnagyle to Lochinver via Inverkirkaig.

It is many years since I have travelled that road and I can assure you it is a wee mad road. Wainwright recounts an adventure he had walking from Ullapool to Lochinver via what he also refers to as the “Little Mad Road of Sutherland“, eventually arriving at Inverkirkaig suffering from starvation and hypothermia. I digress, so let us get back to the Drumbeg Loop.

Wainwright said of the B869 “Little better than a country lane, a road that has never been improved and I hope never will”. Whether by car or bike, this is one journey not worth missing. 

I was on a family holiday staying in a traditional old stone crofters cottage on the outskirts of Lochinver. After visiting Kylesku; and through curiosity, we turned down the B869 to Lochinver.

As Wainwright stated: “it’s little better than a country lane”, and I agree it’s not for the faint-hearted. Nevertheless, the rewards are worth it. Better still, bike it – it’s only 15 miles of stunning beauty.

Initially, the start of the road passes a waterfall in beautiful woodland, where the towering buttresses of Quinag’s Sail Gharbh and Sail Gorm dominate the scene. The road gained height, and we passed over moorland with expansive views over Eddrachillis Bay and beyond.

A steep descent took us down through woodlands of Birch to Loch Nedd, where a lone fisherman mended lobster potts. I suspect there is plenty of opportunity for photography around the loch.

Murder:

This part of the journey now leads to a tale of murder in the Spring of 1830. Murdoch Grant, an English itinerant peddler, was found drowned in Loch-Torr na h Eigen, about a mile south of the hamlet of Nedd. The local farmworker who dragged him ashore observed the peddler’s pockets were turned inside out as if he’d been robbed.

The crime for some time, however, remained unsolved by the local authorities; until suspicions led to the arrest of the local schoolmaster Hugh MacLeod. Nevertheless, a subsequent search of Macleod’s house revealed nothing to connect him to the crime.

Local tailor Kenneth Fraser came forward and claimed he had a vision of Macleod’s house in which a voice in Gaelic told him: “The merchant’s pack is lying in a cairn of stones, in a hole near their house”.

Now at this point, I would have been instantly suspicious of the tailor setting Macleod up. Yet it seems with several articles belonging to Grant found under a small cairn near the house of Macleod and a pair of stockings later found in Macleod’s possession; this was enough evidence to bring Macleod before the circuit court in Inverness.

Chief witness Kenneth “The Dreamer” Fraser was very willing to testify against Macleod with the “evidence” provided in his dream. And for all intents and purposes, Macleod was found guilty. Of course, subsequently, he did admit to the murder (not the first nor to be the last).

On the 24th of October 1831, Hugh Macleod was hanged for the murder. His body was publicly dissected and anatomized at the University of Edinburgh.

Legend has it that on the anniversary of Murdoch Grant’s murder, and for many years later, on the moor beside the loch in the late evening: the sound of a struggle; could be heard.

Find out more here.

Drumbeg:

After passing the ghostly hamlet of Nedd, we stopped at Drumbeg for a quick purchase in the soap shop Assynt Aromas (whilst I cleaned my lens & filters). We then moved on to the spectacular Drumbeg Viewpoint over Loch Dhrombaig.

Clashnessie Bay & Stoer Lighthouse:

The next stop off was at Clashnessie Bay before a quick detour to Stoer Lighthouse. On this headland, the power of nature is irrefutable; waves propelled by high winds crash against this exposed corner of Scotland. From here, it is a 3k walk to the column of sandstone that is the Old Man of Stoer that, however, would have to wait until another day. 

Sunset over Bay of Stoer

Bay of Stoer:

Heading further along the B869, we continued for a short distance to Stoer and the Bay of Stoer. A short walk south of the village lies the Bay of Stoer, and if you are a nut for rocks, then this is the place to be. Now, I am no geologist by any degree, notwithstanding, at the Bay of Stoer you can find excellent examples of Precambrian sandstone layers; with different textures and structures. Meteorite deposits from an ancient now lost impact crater; have also been found.

You can spend hours exploring all the different shapes and sizes of Lewisian gneiss and Torridon sandstone. Nevertheless, do not be alarmed if you come across some stranger wielding a hammer; in all likelihood, it will be a geologist and nothing more sinister.

With the limitless amount of foreground interest, vast opportunities exist for photography.

Lost to the Sea:

During our visit, the coast guard was searching for a sea angler swept away only days before, when conditions were slightly more brutal. Stoer Bay has a reputation for being unforgiving. A reminder that on the hunt for that ultimate sunset shot, keep an eye on the sea.

Clachtoll:

Further on, we came to the small crofting township of Clachtoll that hosts a beach of white sand and turquoise sea. Clachtoll is the anglicised version of the Gaelic: An Clach Thuill. And like Stoer Bay, it’s a geologist’s and photographer’s playground.

There exists a beautiful Swiss-style chalet at Clachtoll. I was envious of the fantastic sunsets viewed directly from the living room. It seems, however, it’s not to everyone’s liking, as some people feel it’s not in keeping with the crofter’s cottages (Butt and Ben) that are the majority in Clachtoll.

There is a nostalgic feeling living in an old crofter’s cottage. Nevertheless, the Swiss Style Chalet design is proving increasingly popular in the Highlands, and I quite like them.

Sunset over Bay of Stoer

Moving south from Clachtoll, the road passes many lochans with deep, appealing reflections. If you’re driving, however, keep your eyes peeled for the elevated blind bend about 3k beyond Clachtoll; you can guarantee someone will come flying around totally oblivious to the danger!

Then, of course, the magnificent viewpoint, further along, will give you time to sit and ponder about the near-death experience you’ve just had. You can now thank your lucky stars that you’re still able to take in such a majestic view of the Assynt Hills. A bike ride downhill from this viewpoint is highly recommended. And quite a rush; heightened to a degree when your brakes fail!

Suilven, Cul More, Cul Beag, and Stac Pollaidh Viewpoint

Achmelvich Bay:

Achmelvich Bay is accessed via a side road 1km southeast of the viewpoint, 3 miles from Lochinver. Alchmelvich Bay, with a small collection of stunning beaches, is more akin to the Caribbean than this wild, windswept corner of Scotland. The name comes from the Gaelic “Achadh” – a plain or meadow, and “mealvaich” – sandy dunes. What can I say – it is a gem.

1km before Achmelvich, there is a walking route over to Lochinver via Ardroe and Baddidarach; this is well worth the effort. With plenty of opportunity for photography, including a rickety old bridge over the river that runs into Loch Roe. The route skirts past Loch Dubh, which is quite beautiful. A waterfall on the east side deserves a closer look if time prevails. Halfway through the walk, superb views exist of Suilven and the Assynt hills.

The Rickety Old Bridge Loch Roe

Lochinver:

I digress. The B869 continues through Torbreck and ends at the junction of the A837. Turning right takes you into the settlement of Lochinver, where we finish this journey. Before we do that, however, I will outline some interesting walks around and about Lochinver.

River Inver

One walk, in particular, the Falls of Kirkaig, shows autumn colours at their most spectacular. The starting point is at Inverkirkaig, a short distance from Lochinver. The walk to the falls passes through breathtaking woodland. Unfortunately, I never managed to get a shot of the falls as it was raining straight into the lens; this was much to my dismay. One silver birch tree with golden leaves contrasted brilliantly against the black rock of the falls. It looked fantastic.

Nevertheless, the pressure was on to get back to the car as the kids were cold and wet. I couldn’t hang about for better conditions; ahhh…. the life of a photographer!

Another spectacular short route is on the Little Assynt Estate. Part of this route is for all abilities, and when quiet, can be biked – so great if you have kids. There are dramatic views of Quinag right around this area. Four lochs are accessed from pathways. One of them, Lochan t-Sabhail, has a well-built shelter by the shore, providing respite to any visitor caught up in a heavy downpour.

There are viewpoints around the route as well. Quinag, Ben More Assynt, Conival, Canisp, Suilven, and Stac Pollaidh, are all to be seen in spectacular panoramas.

Another woodland in Lochinver is Culag woods which is a community woodland trust. The woodland trail along the River Inver is also well worth the effort.

River Inver

For food, try the An Cala Cafe in Lochinver. I had the most amazing langoustines, straight from the boat and excellent value for money.

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